A Travellerspoint blog

By this Author: GraveNomads

Crime, Convicts and Cruelty

Port Arthur - trauma, tragedy and massacre

There is just so much to see in Tasmania and the historical places offer a real insight into life in this convict colony - Port Arthur being the largest and most visited site and a UNESCO World Heritage Site at that. Covering 146 hectares on a spectacular location about 90 minutes drive south of Hobart it's still easy to see with the remaining buildings that this was a big community based on the management of convicted criminals as this old picture shows.

large_IMG_1444.jpeg
The most imposing building, the Penitentiary was originally a flour mill and granary built in 1845 but by 1857 it was converted to a prison with 136 individual cells on the lower level for prisoners of 'bad character' and an upper level dormitory housing 348 better behaved inmates.

IMG_1427.jpegIMG_1429.jpegIMG_1436.jpegIMG_1431.jpeg
After buying your ticket to enter the Port Arthur site you navigate the gift shop then select a card with a profile of a convict like this one. You can follow up on what actually happened to 'your' convict in the drawers in the gallery.

large_IMG_1421.jpeg
There's a section in the entry building that houses 'Returned Things'. Intriguingly there's a surprising amount of returned things! Such things are items that visitors have 'souvenired' as a memento of Port Arthur! Often these things have been accompanied by letters including such statements like "our tour guide gave me a brick as a souvenir" - yeah, right!!! As if the tour guides would be handing out the old bricks - it wouldn’t take long for there to be no ruins to look at if that actually happened. And the reason people return their souvenirs? Largely because of the bad luck they’ve experienced since acquiring said 'souvenirs'. Seriously that is how most of the letters go.
The entry ticket also includes a short 'cruise' which goes past the boatyard area and around the Isle of the Dead from where you get a great view of the whole settlement.

IMG_1448.jpegIMG_1452.jpeglarge_IMG_1455.jpeg
As your ticket allows you to return to Port Arthur on the following day we did just that. There's too much to take in to do it all in a day (more than 30 historic buildings), plus on day two I booked to go on a tour of the Isle of the Dead where you go ashore from the 'cruise' and 'enjoy' - if you could call it that - a guided tour. Back to the Isle of the Dead shortly. Let's look at how the civilians and convicts lived and worked here.

IMG_1474.jpegffff73a0-1801-11ef-9511-1b2e795c67a9.jpeg

There were over 2,000 residents in Port Arthur by 1840. Buildings were constructed and furnished by convict labour. There was a school, a church, courthouse and various workshops as well as the prison buildings and civilian homes. The boat builders made 16 ships and about 150 smaller boats. Port Arthur ceased being a penal settlement in 1877 and shortly afterwards many of the buildings were dismantled for reuse, or later destroyed by bush fire. Today the remaining buildings vary from a few ruins to restored and habitable. The Commandant’s house is still in beautiful, intact condition.

e387dd90-0c6f-11ef-8da3-ef904b59b7a6.jpegIMG_1461.jpeglarge_IMG_1462.jpeglarge_IMG_1466.jpeg
The setting is even inspirational to the artistically talented - with this lady - who was with a group from Perth WA apparently - creating delightful mini pictures of the scenery.

IMG_1476.jpegIMG_1482.jpeg

As a fully developed settlement there was a definite social hierarchy and while the male community leaders were busy trying to rehabilitate prisoners, the wives looked after the children and apparently (according to a Port Arthur tour guide) occasionally enjoyed 'sassafras tea' brewed from Tasmania's black sassafras tree. Now sassafras has some interesting qualities - back in the days of this penal settlement it was enjoyed for its relaxing and somewhat hallucinogenic effects. So the ladies were often somewhat off their heads by the time the menfolk returned from a day's do-gooding! Sassafras was used for a long time as a drink but it has been found to also have carcinogenic qualities and is no longer on the afternoon tea menu.

IMG_3376.jpegIMG_3361.jpeg

But back to the real business of this place - punishment. This has been a difficult post to write because the available information on the lives of convicts here is confronting and upsetting. As mentioned in a previous post about the Cascade female factory prison crimes ranged from petty theft to violent murder but it's evident from reading all the information about Port Arthur that punishment was brutal, cruel and unrelenting regardless of the seriousness of the crime. One part of Port Arthur was the Point Puer Boys' Prison which was built to accommodate youths aged 14-17 but had boys as young as nine.

large_IMG_1502.jpeg
There was also a Hospital, the Asylum and the Paupers' Depot which are pretty self-explanatory. The Separate Prison was a new style of incarceration based on Pentonville Prison in London.

IMG_1494.jpegIMG_1492.jpeg
The authorities had determined that hard labour and physical punishment made prisoners more violent and more likely to reoffend so the Separate Prison operated with isolation, silent contemplation and anonymity. This was the start of prisoners being referred to by numbers not names and they worked in silence in their individual tiny cells for 23 hours a day. Even the remaining hour was spent in isolation. When prisoners attended a weekly service in the chapel they were made to wear hoods with only eye holes and were made to stand in what were really just tiny cupboards so they couldn’t communicate with fellow prisoners on any level. Despite these restrictions they evidently did manage to 'talk' to each other by singing their messages during the hymns!

large_IMG_1500.jpegIMG_1496.jpeg27c7c230-1775-11ef-946e-9592904ade4f.jpeg
There were many critics of this style of punishment - among them Charles Dickens and Anthony Trollope.

IMG_1503.jpegIMG_1499.jpeg
Below shows an excerpt from the inquest into a prisoner suicide and an account of a young prisoner's state of mind by reformer Frederick Mackie - both of which really demonstrate the dehumanising effects of the Separate Prison.

IMG_1498.jpegIMG_1501.jpeg
The Isle of the Dead tour gave further insights into the demise of both convicts and civilians. But before I outline this part of the island's story you need to know that the traditional owners were the Pydairrerme people - an Oyster Bay tribe. Up until European occupation the indigenous people camped and collected shellfish here so the island includes a large shell midden. Covering just a hectare (or 2.5 acres) the island houses over 1,000 graves - there are just 9 headstones for 900 men on the lower level (as convict graves were not acknowledged by headstones) and a few dozen on the upper level. Access is via raised walkways to avoid walking on unmarked graves - it's extremely well done.

IMG_1531.jpegIMG_1540.jpeg
Causes of death included respiratory disease, malnutrition, dysentery, enteritis in addition to murder and suicide. There were also several drownings - often close to shore! Remember that these were mostly British people who couldn’t swim and if they fell out of a boat nearing shore for example they were weighed down by heavy uniforms in addition to not being able to swim - even those trying to help them often drowned too. Of 40 British military men buried on the Isle of the Dead, half of them drowned! William Doodie, a Senior Constable was one such drowning victim.

large_IMG_1534.jpeg
Death in childbirth was common too and there’s a grave for Harriet Chatfield who produced 13 children before dying aged 39 with her unborn baby inside her. Several of the headstones have an engraved rope edging - these were made by a carver named Pickering. As most of the convicts were illiterate there are many errors on the wording on the headstones, for example a young boy whose surname was 'McDavid' has 'McDivitt' on his headstone. Another (unmarked) grave belongs to James May who was transported for life to 'Van Diemens Land' in 1831 for body snatching. He died at Port Arthur in 1834 and was reputed to have been involved with the infamous grave robbers and murderers Burke and Hare in Edinburgh.

IMG_1543.jpegIMG_1535.jpegIMG_1542.jpeg
Back in the main settlement we visited the church buildings and gardens - such a contrast to the shocking stories on Isle of the Dead.

large_IMG_3360.jpegIMG_1527.jpegIMG_1529.jpeglarge_IMG_1528.jpegIMG_1530.jpeg
Finally before leaving Port Arthur another tragic event needs to be acknowledged. On 28 April 1996 a lone gunman killed 35 people using semi-automatic rifles. The majority of these murders took place at the Port Arthur historic site. The perpetrator received 35 life sentences without the possibility of parole. There's a monument and a memorial plaque for the victims in the gardens here. The Howard government reviewed gun laws following this tragedy - with a buyback scheme and the National Firearms Agreement being implemented. It was indeed a dark day in Australia's history.
On a lighter note, as we left Port Arthur we were delighted to see this innovative travelling rig in the car park just near our camper!

large_4f116a30-1801-11ef-9511-1b2e795c67a9.jpeg

Posted by GraveNomads 12:25 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

Queenstown, Tasmania - the Wild West

NOT to be confused with Queenstown, EnZed!

As Katie and Rob had left to explore Cradle Mountain we made the relatively short trip back to Queenstown to see more of this wild west town. Like many of the places we visited on this trip we had seen it on ABC TV's ‘Backroads' program and wanted to see it for ourselves. We booked into the local caravan park for a couple of nights and our first excursion was on the West Coast Wilderness Railway. The old train departs from the impressive station with its engine turntable. It currently doesn’t make the trip along the tracks to Strahan but just does a short trip up to a historic stop where you can play at panning for gold.

IMG_1295.jpegIMG_1276.jpegIMG_1277.jpegIMG_1288.jpeg
There was a mosquito inside the window on the train and it looked almost big enough to make vampire-like incisions into the jugular but we later found out it was an 'elephant mosquito' which is a nectar feeder not a bloodsucker!

large_IMG_1274.jpeg
Queenstown is an attractive place architecturally speaking with some quaint homes and lovely old hotels and public buildings. The Queen River shown here is a strange colour. It currently has no life due to the high levels of pollution from past mining activity which ceased in 1995. Despite the beautiful location its is the most polluted river in Australia! It's expected to take about 150 years to become clean enough to support life again.

IMG_1280.jpegIMG_1291.jpegIMG_1331.jpegIMG_1332.jpegIMG_1297.jpegIMG_1298.jpeg
There's a sculpture depicting a mining family from around the mid-1800s and some nice street art.

IMG_1299.jpegIMG_1334.jpegIMG_1333.jpeg
Even our caravan park with spectacular views all round had an art feature.

IMG_1347.jpegIMG_1346.jpeg
This was the camp kitchen - with its ‘interesting' games offerings!

IMG_1343.jpegIMG_1344.jpeg
This Queenstown museum photo shows miners at Rosebery zinc and copper mine about 1897 - it looks so grim.

large_IMG_1311.jpeg
There was a typhoid outbreak here in the 1890s and one unfortunate victim was a young nurse, Margaret Madden who died from typhoid in 1899 aged just 23. See the ghostly image - I don’t recall seeing that when I took a photo of the photo! And it's not my reflection - who takes a nurse costume camping!

large_IMG_1327.jpeg
Nearby Mount Lyell was the scene of a tragic mining disaster on 12 October 1912 when a fire broke out killing 42 of the 170 men who'd entered the mine that day. The Queenstown museum holds many accounts and photos of the tragedy and its aftermath.

IMG_1303.jpegIMG_1309.jpegIMG_1321.jpeg
The strangest exhibit in the museum was the maternity hospital setup. This recreated ward shows a very young girl who seems to have had twins perhaps - see the two bassinets. She also has a full range of bedpans to choose from! Then there's the 'stirrups' just nearby - reminiscent of the way births were handled not all that long ago!

IMG_1328.jpegIMG_1329.jpegIMG_1330.jpeg
Perhaps she was reaching out for some of this clothing so she could get dressed and hightail it out of there?

IMG_1325.jpegIMG_1326.jpeg
Being a mining town there are plenty of rocks in the museum too.

large_IMG_1319.jpeglarge_IMG_1317.jpeglarge_IMG_1314.jpeglarge_IMG_1320.jpeg
And for some strange reason there's some coprolites - also known as dinosaur poo! It's not just any old local Jurassic Park poo either - it's from New South Wales!

large_IMG_1316.jpeg
The final interesting part of the Queenstown museum was fishy, or should I say crabby - showing what can be caught off the nearby coast at Strahan.

large_IMG_1312.jpeglarge_IMG_1313.jpeg
We left Queenstown via the famous 99 bends road again, this time stopping at Horsetail Falls - which wasn't flowing much but was still worth the walk up the boardwalk to view.

IMG_1352.jpeg70e60d10-078e-11ef-a284-2bd444eb77d2.jpeg6e14c4a0-078e-11ef-a284-2bd444eb77d2.jpegIMG_1364.jpegIMG_1361.jpeg
As we passed through the remote area of Gormanston and into Linda we saw this creepy old building and I imagined breaking down in a place like this - the gloomy weather didn’t help either. it's a great spot for a horror movie!

large_IMG_1367.jpeg
Equally desolate and eerie was the Linda cemetery.

e4b6d5c0-078f-11ef-9d8b-e5baab5a0994.jpege5a1f910-078f-11ef-ab29-cb0052293798.jpeg
We crossed Lake Burbury and made our way to Derwent Bridge to see The Wall - and yes we saw this on 'Backroads' too 😉 On the way through the 99 bends there are several beehives set up in groups. Most of the honey here is from the Leatherwood trees and has a unique and delicious flavour. Of course we bought some and were able to take what we hadn’t used into Victoria when we took the ferry back from Tasmania. We were also allowed to take it into South Australia at the quarantine station from Victoria BUT we had to surrender the little bit we had left at the WA border - which we fully expected as honey is on the prohibited produce list. After all we all know how important it is to protect the bees and honey industry in WA.

IMG_1377.jpegIMG_1378.jpeg
On the drive from the main road into The Wall - which is at Derwent Bridge - there are large sculptures on poles.

IMG_1381.jpegIMG_1383.jpeg

Once inside the huge building that houses The Wall you’re not allowed to take photos.

large_IMG_1382.jpeg
The official website shows what it's about and it's an incredible artistic work - still in progress - so check out this link to learn about it.

The Wall website

After The Wall we made our way to the central town of Hamilton where we camped by the river and had a pub meal at the supposedly haunted Hamilton Inn!

IMG_1388.jpegIMG_1390.jpegIMG_1394.jpegIMG_1393.jpeg
Next time - Convicts, Crime and The Isle of the Dead!

Posted by GraveNomads 08:54 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

Caves, Coast and Cemeteries

Water pipes and waterfalls and a prison island

Heading south from near Hobart we visited the stunning Hastings Cave on our way to Cockle Creek - which is just about as far south as you can drive in Tasmania! We stopped briefly in Geeveston after passing through the Huon estuary. Geeveston has a couple of great camping spots, a fab bakery/cafe and some creative street art. We would return to Geeveston for a longer stay later in our Tassie trip.

IMG_1016.jpegIMG_1018.jpegIMG_1020.jpegIMG_1023.jpegIMG_1026.jpegIMG_3183.jpeg
The cave at Hastings was spectacular! There were also some 'thermal springs' included in the ticket price but disappointingly that wasn’t the forest setting we were expecting but a large swimming pool that was pretty chilly and not at all inviting on an overcast day - so we headed straight for the cave.

IMG_1029.jpegIMG_1042.jpegIMG_1037.jpegIMG_1040.jpeg
Onto our camping spot at the World Heritage Listed Wilderness site of Cockle Creek - what a beautiful place!

IMG_3204.jpegIMG_1046.jpegIMG_1087.jpegIMG_1058.jpegIMG_3207.jpegIMG_1056.jpegIMG_3205.jpeg
The whale sculpture is amazing. It's a Southern Right Whale - in acknowledgment of the thousands killed here as they passed through Recherche Bay. Unbelievably there were FOUR whaling stations just in the Cockle Creek area from the 1830s! It’s a shameful part of history in this beautiful place. As we set up camp we encountered our first pademelon - not something you can chuck in a fruit salad despite the name! Nor quite as cute as the quokkas we have on Rottnest Island in WA (made famous by Roger Federer in his quokka selfie).

e3f66920-02f3-11ef-8830-097c47978d59.jpeg
The next morning was still on the chilly side yet John had a quick ‘refreshing' swim right opposite our camp site.

IMG_1071.jpeg
We packed up and headed out but not before I thought Billy Connolly had arrived and set up camp next to us - but sadly it wasn’t him! I'd recently finished reading his memoir 'Rambling Man' in which he stated he'd swap his wife, Pamela Stephenson for a Winnebago so for a minute I thought he'd gone ahead and done that - even though it wasn’t a Winnebago it did look like him.

IMG_1067.jpeg
On the way out we visited Cockle Creek cemetery which is the southernmost in Australia. It has graves from the late 1880s to 1936, 12 of which are marked and at least 10 unmarked.

77510950-02f4-11ef-8830-097c47978d59.jpeg7af6b8c0-02f4-11ef-8830-097c47978d59.jpegIMG_1078.jpegIMG_1080.jpeg
At its peak Cockle Creek had about 300 residents who mostly worked in the timber industry, coal mining, fishing and boat building. Many of the descendants of people buried here still live locally. The grave of Thomas Doherty has a more recent plaque on it and the most information on the cemetery signage. He was an Irish convict who arrived in Tasmania in 1843, gained his freedom in 1849, and became the first licenced Huon Piner. He fathered 12 children with wife Agnes and the family came to Cockle Creek in 1880. Thomas's time there was short as on St Patrick's Day in 1882 he called into the nearby Southport Hotel on his way back from Hobart after selling a consignment of Huon pine for £7,000. On returning to his boat Thomas 'drowned while intoxicated'. He had severe facial injuries and the large amount of cash was gone. Considered a suspicious death the subsequent investigation never solved it.

large_IMG_1081.jpeglarge_IMG_1082.jpeg

Before heading out on the main road we passed through the settlement of Catamaran - with its holiday homes ranging from old caravans to more modern beach houses - then took a track to find Mystery Creek Cave.

72957d10-02f4-11ef-8830-097c47978d59.jpegIMG_1090.jpegIMG_1091.jpeg
But - no guided tour this time!

56515050-0319-11ef-bafa-ed100d2d3592.jpeg
It was a forest path but long stretches were extremely muddy and we had no choice but to squelch through it to reach the cave as the sides of the path were impenetrable forest.

large_566cc790-0319-11ef-a249-efce90ffb00b.jpeg7b555380-02f4-11ef-8830-097c47978d59.jpeg073c4520-031d-11ef-9635-e55519bfafe3.jpeg
There were some old boots along the way that looked like they should be in a museum exhibit.
large_7981a4f0-02f4-11ef-8830-097c47978d59.jpeg
The cave entrance was a steep, narrow, rocky incline.

large_IMG_2801.jpeg
5023bd80-0319-11ef-bafa-ed100d2d3592.jpeg4f149770-0319-11ef-bafa-ed100d2d3592.jpegIMG_1107.jpegIMG_2803.jpeg
Our daughter Katie even found a cave dwelling critter!

large_IMG_2802.jpeg
After trudging back to our vehicles we cleaned up and set off over the hills and far away to Mount Field National Park which meant going back through Hobart and north then west through more winding, forested hills.

large_IMG_2804.jpegIMG_1111.jpegIMG_1113.jpeg
We reached 'Left of Field' camp late afternoon and enjoyed the fresh mountain air, herb garden, fire pit and what would have to be the most comprehensive drinks bar in any camp spot in Australia!

IMG_1119.jpegIMG_1117.jpeglarge_IMG_1115.jpeg
Next morning the we went to the main attraction near Mount Field - Russell Falls - which is another gorgeous walk. A relatively tame pademelon just watched us go by.

large_IMG_1125.jpegIMG_1126.jpegIMG_1127.jpegIMG_1131.jpegIMG_1133.jpeg
You can see the falls from the top too and the tree ferns give the place a Jurassic Park feel.

IMG_1135.jpegIMG_1137.jpegIMG_1138.jpegIMG_1140.jpeg
The forest seems to have its own microclimate almost like the caves we had visited the previous couple of days.

IMG_1151.jpegIMG_1162.jpeg
We made our way to Strahan on Tasmania's ruggedly beautiful west coast - via the aptly named '99 Bends Road' (a.k.a the Lyell Highway). This cemetery at Ellendale was in a pretty location but being on a mission we didn’t stop to look more closely. The road crosses Meadowbank lake before the bends and hills really kick in.

IMG_1166.jpegIMG_1168.jpeg
The hydroelectric power of this mountainous area was evident as we passed the Tungatinah power station with its massive pipes.

IMG_1172.jpeg.
IMG_1173.jpegIMG_1174.jpeg
Following the camper van we wound our way through to Strahan to camp for the night before the next day's booked excursion.

IMG_1175.jpegIMG_1184.jpegIMG_1186.jpegIMG_1187.jpeg
How's this for an epic MTB (mountain bike) track on the outskirts of Queenstown!
IMG_1195.jpegIMG_1199.jpeg
We were booked on the Gordon River cruise the next morning - a beautiful, calm day as we sailed out through Hells Gate into Macquarie Heads. There’s also fish farms (salmon) out in Macquarie Harbour.

IMG_1204.jpegIMG_1205.jpegIMG_1206.jpegIMG_1208.jpeg
First stop was Sarah Island - a former prison. The fabulous tour guides are also members of the Round Earth Theatre Company who perform nightly in a play called 'The Ship that Never Was' - this gets great reviews (based on a true story and featured in an episode of ABC TV's ‘Backroads' program) but the play was fully booked during our visit so we didn’t get to see it - there's always next time!

IMG_1210.jpegIMG_1212.jpegIMG_1227.jpegIMG_1224.jpegIMG_1219.jpegIMG_1217.jpeg
Sarah Island is a grim reminder of Tasmania's convict past. It operated as a penal settlement from 1822 to 1833 and housed 1,200 prisoners with a reputation of being the most dreaded place of punishment in Tassie. It also became Australia’s most productive ship building yard during that short time with over 100 ships built! The death rate was high and there are wooden engraved panels that display the grisly details, such as '27th April 1822 John Ollery - 50 lashes - 30th lash unconscious - 35th lash found to be dead'. Another one, 'CANNIBALISED October 1830 Patrick Feagan, William Coventry - Murdered and eaten by Broughton and McAlboy.'

IMG_1231.jpegIMG_1232.jpegIMG_1234.jpeg
After departing Sarah Island the cruise continued up the iconic Gordon River where we disembarked at the Heritage Landing Rainforest Walk. It's easily accessible and has great signage explaining the local flora such as Swamp gum, Tasmanian Laurel and the native plum which has medicinal properties.This tiger snake was curled up just off the boardwalk out of harm’s way.

IMG_1252.jpegIMG_1247.jpegIMG_1250.jpegIMG_1248.jpeg
Returning to Strahan we went through the sawmill where Huon pine is processed. It's a very expensive, sought after timber and logging and processing is very tightly controlled with huge fines for any transgressions!

IMG_1255.jpegIMG_1256.jpeg
After the cruise we temporarily parted company with Katie and Rob as they hightailed it to Cradle Mountain - we had been there before so left it out of this trip. We left Strahan back through the hills (Mount Lyell and Mount Owen in the backdrop) to camp in the old gold mining town of Queenstown for two nights and enjoy more of Tasmania’s wild west .

IMG_1264.jpegIMG_1265.jpegIMG_1266.jpeg
Next time Queenstown's wild side, Hamilton (not Alexander) and back to the east coast.

Posted by GraveNomads 00:37 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

Tasmania at last!

Bass Strait & beyond

The Spirit of Tasmania ferry runs usually twice daily from Geelong to Devonport and the reverse of course - it’s a lot of people and vehicles - mostly RVs.

IMG_0804.jpegIMG_0778.jpegIMG_0780.jpeg
We had a beautiful sunny day and a calm crossing of Bass Strait. Leaving Geelong and going out through the heads was just gorgeous. The boat is comfortable with several lounge and eating areas and a comprehensive tourist information centre. There's even a cinema and great kids play area complete with TV screen and a cute wall of animal collective nouns. Who knew that a group of lemurs is a 'conspiracy'? It's an 'aurora' of polar bears and a group of platypuses is a 'paddle'!

IMG_3100.jpegIMG_3098.jpegIMG_0793.jpegIMG_0812.jpeg
Arriving in Devonport we were surprised to see the Edgewater Hotel - but we doubt it's named named after our home suburb! After a quick grocery shop to replenish the fruit and veg (none of which you can take across to Tassie) we set up camp at the Devonport Golf Club.

IMG_0808.jpegIMG_0824.jpegIMG_0825.jpeg
A visit to the nearby arboretum was first up the next day. Wildlife warning signs are everywhere in Tassie but luckily our first encounter was was with this echidna rather than the slithering kind.

IMG_0830.jpegIMG_3941.jpeg
I was surprised to see a bench named in honour of Stephen King - not after one of my favourite authors but after a founding member of the Arboretum Society. It's a beautiful place maintained by volunteers but we saw several people walk in without paying the $5 entry fee which is a great shame.

IMG_0853.jpegIMG_0846.jpegIMG_0852.jpegIMG_0851.jpegIMG_0839.jpeg
This vegetation map of the island state shows the darkest areas - rainforest and the vertical stripes which is eucalypts. This means that 49% of Tasmania is forested! Of that 91% is native and 9% is plantation timber. Within the forest category are further forest subtypes such as blackwood, tea-tree, Oyster Bay, silver wattle and she-oak.
IMG_0850.jpegIMG_0844.jpeg
There are information signs around the arboretum which indicate the origins of the scientific names of many of the native plants - always after European explorers and botanists of course!

e1ec8260-0111-11ef-b640-e9b3a6afb170.jpeg
So there's the familiar plants such as Grevillea, Hakea, Boronia and Billardiera - all named respectively after Charles Francis Greville, Baron Christian Ludwig von Hake, Franceso Borone and Jacques-Julien Houtou de Labillardière.
We finished off the day with a visit to the Spreyton Cider Company and for the following seven weeks in Tasmania we did not find a better cider!

IMG_0828.jpegIMG_0856.jpeg

It was time to head down through the middle of Tassie to meet up with our daughter and son-in-law who were flying in to hire a camper van for 12 days. It's a pretty drive even on the main highways. I couldn’t resist including a photo of the sign on the roundabout for Perth, Tasmania! Our camp for the next three nights was The Lea (old Scouts camp) high on a hill in Kingston - 15 minutes from the centre of Hobart.

IMG_0867.jpegIMG_0870.jpegIMG_0875.jpegIMG_0876.jpegIMG_0868.jpegIMG_0873.jpegIMG_0884.jpegIMG_0887.jpeg
Before meeting up with our family we visited the Cascade Female Factory the brutal women’s prison from the 1800s. Not much is left in terms of buildings but the layout is still evident and the museum section contains artefacts and audio accounts of what life was like. It's a heart breaking journey that highlights the cruelty of the people in authority at the time.

IMG_0902.jpegIMG_0901.jpegIMG_0910.jpegIMG_0892.jpegIMG_0905.jpegIMG_0893.jpeg
Around the grounds are little plaques showing the profiles of the prisoners. Crimes ranged from 'murder and incest' to 'stealing bacon' with sentences ranging from life to seven years - seven years for stealing bacon!

Their physician characteristics were described too - such as 'large eyelashes', 'broad chin and a broken nose', 'long nose, hazel eyes and a dozen tattoos'.

IMG_0904.jpegIMG_0907.jpeg
If a woman fell pregnant while under sentence she was guilty of a punishable offence - even if she claimed her condition was a result of sexual assault. Most distressing was the Wall of Names - listing 2,000 babies and children who were born there and lived and frequently died there - mostly from disease and malnutrition.

28da5df0-016c-11ef-919d-d12ca12009e2.jpeglarge_270b1c30-016c-11ef-969b-d94bb429b093.jpeg
Women who gave birth could keep their babies with them for nine months - but after three months they had to take care of another child and at six months yet another child. Then at nine months of age the baby was weaned and the mother was separated from her baby and sent back to do the factory work. She may have never seen her child again. At three years of age the children were sent to the orphanage schools where they were also kept in awful conditions and brought up to be servants or farm workers - often by the age of eight. From 1828 to 1856, a total of 1,675 women were imprisoned there - 220 of them died there. It was an upsetting and confronting day for the most part but absolutely worth visiting to learn about this dark time and place in Australia's history.
The next day we met our daughter and son-in-law at Hobart airport. Right outside their hotel was a small critter that the receptionist told us was a 'rat' that she'd seen yesterday and had asked the maintenance man to remove it. We reassured her that it was a Southern brown bandicoot not a rat and that she should be proudly telling tourists that if they saw it!

IMG_0925.jpeg
Onto the lovely old town of Richmond - famous for having Australia's oldest stone bridge - built by convicts and completed in 1825.

IMG_0940.jpeg
Less famous but more unusual was the 'Pooseum'! Intriguing as it was we didn’t go in as our daughter is a zookeeper and looking at animal poo is part of her daily tasks!

IMG_0943.jpegIMG_0944.jpegIMG_0942.jpeg

Next stop was MONA - Tasmania's world famous Museum of New and Old Art. It’s an interesting collection in an amazing building in an iconic setting. Art is very subjective and we liked much of it and disliked other exhibits. The library full of blank, white books was perplexing for this former librarian!

IMG_0955.jpegIMG_0964.jpegIMG_0958.jpegIMG_0965.jpegIMG_0948.jpegIMG_0954.jpegIMG_0963.jpegIMG_0974.jpeg

Saturday is market day at Salamanca Markets in the centre of Hobart. It's in a beautiful location near the harbour but is very touristy - especially compared to when we visited it about 15 years ago. Then there was much more local produce - as in food - now there's only a small fresh food section and the rest is somewhat disappointing - likely aiming for the lucrative cruise ship passengers and other tourists. We loved the Gillie and Marc sculpture 'Happy Birthday Mr President' at the edge of the market.

IMG_0977.jpeg

We'd seen another of their sculptures in Onslow in northwest WA - about as far away from Tassie as you can get in Australia! These are the Paparazzi dogs on the beachfront in Onslow.

IMG_9545.jpegIMG_9547.jpeg
Back to Tassie - after the markets we drove up (and up and up) Kunanyi - also known as Mount Wellington. It's an incredible place to visit and enjoy the views over Hobart.

IMG_0989.jpegIMG_0988.jpegIMG_1009.jpegIMG_0999.jpegIMG_1006.jpeg
Kunanyi is also an extremely windy place! Back in the day meteorologist Clement Wragge began recording the weather on Mt Wellington - and he's the person to blame for naming cyclones - apparently after politicians he disliked!
large_fe804490-0182-11ef-bbcd-016b9b161882.jpeg
Next - caves, coast and Australia's southernmost cemetery.

Posted by GraveNomads 00:12 Archived in Australia Comments (1)

Viaducts, misty mountains and a Tour de France winner

Yarra Valley, Alps foothills, Bonnie Doon and Geelong

Around Daylesford are several quaintly named villages with lovely old architecture, gardens, arboretums and generally spectacular views. You can imagine an Aussie version of Midsomer Murders being set in any one of them. Starting with Glenlyon with its restored 1890 Shire Hall - seemingly very small for its grand title.

IMG_0633.jpeg
The General Store is still operational and alongside it is a fairy tree complete with staircase and tiny window.

IMG_0634.jpeg
There's more to the oval shaped cut outs in the bark of many native trees than just fairy doors. These oval 'scars' were carved out by Aboriginal people and used to make bowls, or are totems indicating initiation or burial sites. The larger, longer such scars were carved out to make shields, traps or canoes. So the fairy stairs and window are a much more recent whimsy not linked to the original carving.

IMG_0635.jpeg
Glenlyon also has a mineral water spring which went out of favour (& flavour perhaps) in the 1980s when there were fears of it being radioactive! The current signage indicates 'Recent testing of the spring water shows it to be perfectly safe to drink.' One family had driven 100 kms to fill up their car with several dozen bottles of it - bloke said his old Greek mother attributed her good health to drinking two glasses of it every day! We filled up two water bottles with it but didn’t drink all of it as it looked like ginger beer (bloke said it was usually clear) and was quite fizzy.

IMG_0645.jpegIMG_0646.jpeg
Malmsbury was next with its famous bakery, botanic gardens, book exchange and viaduct - the latter completed in 1862. Here they are in no particular order of preference. Note Victoria's rivers and lakes are almost always a murky brown colour.

IMG_0663.jpegIMG_0653.jpegIMG_0662.jpeg5523e9d0-f0c3-11ee-b034-6b283249c876.jpeg
Onto nearby Taradale which also has a viaduct that was completed in the same year - 1862! Clearly viaduct building was very much a thing with the spread of rail travel. This one is a very different style and the steel columns were added for additional support in 1933-34. John admiring the stonework here too.

IMG_0669.jpegIMG_0674.jpeg
Just near the Taradale viaduct was this gorgeous old property that made me want to just move right in and go all Seven Little Australians (even though it's set nowhere near there)! Look it up if you’ve never read it.

IMG_0676.jpeg
Onto Fryerstown with its beautiful old Burke and Wills Mechanics Institute building - again still in fine condition - the 1860s were certainly a time of much public building. Incidentally these old Mechanics Institute buildings were the original free public libraries in Australia.

1d3fcda0-fbe4-11ee-9e16-0d77c4da1eac.jpeg
Vaughan was next with a slide going from the little campground down to the park and public amenities - and yes a certain Grave Nomad couldn’t resist trying the slide - twice actually as he didn’t go fast enough the first time! Two young kids waited their turn.

IMG_3931.jpeg
The Chinese cemetery in Vaughan holds both graves with Chinese and English engravings - the Chinese being those who came to the area in the early gold mining days.

1d75aab0-fbe4-11ee-9e16-0d77c4da1eac.jpegIMG_0682.jpeg.
A couple of days later we ventured out through the Yarra Valley through Healesville first - with its Grand Hotel that wouldn’t look out of place in a gothic horror film. Healesville is also home to the famous (and fabulous - so I've heard) Four Pillars Gin Distillery.

IMG_0696.jpegIMG_3583.jpeg
The drive is stunning going through the towns of Fernshaw, Saint Fillans, Narbethong, Buxton, Taggerty, Acheron, Alexandra, Yarck, Kanumbra, Merton, Woodfield, Bonnie Doon and Maindample - the most famous of these being Bonnie Doon right? If it doesn’t ring any bells then you've probably never seen that classic Aussie film 'The Castle' - if not, check it out, if you have then it’s time to watch it again!

95030960-fbe9-11ee-85af-07672ffcb166.jpegIMG_0154.jpeg02f53480-fbe9-11ee-98ca-a559c6495127.jpegIMG_0699.jpeg
Mansfield itself is at the base of the Australian Alps - with a very wide main road featuring shops selling equestrian equipment and ski gear alongside trendy shops, hotels (some nice Art Deco) and cafes. It is close to the Mount Buller ski resort. In the centre of the road is a memorial to the police officers who were killed by Ned Kelly and his gang at nearby Stringybark Creek.

IMG_0709.jpegIMG_0713.jpeg
The Mansfield Visitors Centre holds artefacts from 'The Man from Snowy River' film featuring Sigrid Thornton (last mentioned in Echuca in 'All the Rivers Run') and Kirk Douglas.

0309f500-fbe9-11ee-85af-07672ffcb166.jpeg031084b0-fbe9-11ee-8354-2d264ec08f7f.jpeg 02f97a40-fbe9-11ee-a9b7-77914c170ecf.jpeg
Heading out from Mansfield we took a winding mountain track called Maintongoon Road where I swear we saw a black kangaroo! It was a spectacular drive high on the ridge with views both sides despite the mist and intermittent rain.

IMG_0718.jpegIMG_0724.jpeg5ded9800-fcbb-11ee-88cc-67aa027f3a69.jpegIMG_0727.jpegIMG_0719.jpeg
A couple of days later we walked along the Yarra River in gorgeous Warburton - where picnickers played games and others floated downstream - it’s a tranquil and pretty place in a section called Scotchman's Creek.

IMG_0734.jpegIMG_0741.jpegIMG_0735.jpegIMG_0732.jpegIMG_0740.jpegIMG_0733.jpegIMG_0739.jpegIMG_0737.jpeg
Then it was time to head to the port city of Geelong to board the ferry to Tassie. We arrived in Geelong on the final day of the annual Cadel Evans Great Ocean Road Race - of which Cadel Evans - Australia's only Tour de France winner - is the main attraction and namesake. The Eritreans were out in force supporting their man Natnael Tesfazion but he was pipped by a Kiwi. Lucky for us not only did we get to see the final stage of the race - won by up and coming young New Zealander Laurence Pithie - we also managed to wander around the back of the podium after the presentations and meet Cadel Evans and what a humble and gracious man he is for someone with such a great achievement under his belt! It certainly made our day before heading across Bass Strait the next morning.

IMG_0757.jpegIMG_0759.jpegIMG_0773.jpegIMG_0755.jpegIMG_0762.jpegIMG_0754.jpegIMG_0770.jpegIMG_0769.jpeg
Next post: Tassie - finally!

Posted by GraveNomads 12:16 Archived in Australia Comments (0)

(Entries 1 - 5 of 26) Page [1] 2 3 4 5 6 » Next